When it comes to makeup, the debate is anything but skin-deep. To some, it’s a magic wand that boosts confidence and enhances natural features, while others worry about its potential to harm the skin. So, what’s the real story? Is makeup the secret to flawless skin, or a culprit lurking behind complexion woes?
“Makeup used to be a tool to cover up skin concerns as I had so many dark spots,” says Lorraine Gamuchirai Fraser, a makeup artist based in Pretoria. “However, it came a time when I learned how important it was to take care of my skin first before I covered it up with makeup.”
“Makeup has helped women feel confident about themselves. I would call it a confidence booster. The other benefit is that it enhances and highlights the features we all already have.”
Lorraine Gamuchirai Fraser
However, Gamuchirai acknowledges that makeup isn’t always good for the skin. “Having it on all the time could affect the texture of your skin, clog your pores, and lead to breakouts. Skin needs to breathe,” she says.
Makeup artist Neo Seshoka from Limpopo notes the importance of finding a balance between makeup and skincare, as she believes it can be harmful without a good skincare routine.
Protect your skin
“I often use makeup on special occasions, and I’ve never experienced any negative effects since I started using makeup because skincare prep is of utmost importance for me before applying it. I always follow my daily skincare routine before I apply makeup to protect my skin barrier.”
“I don’t use it to cover up my skin problems. I’ve committed to taking care of my skin first, as someone who used to struggle with hyperpigmentation and dark spots.”
For somatologist and makeup artist Nqubeko Mnyandu from Osizweni in KwaZulu-Natal, her relationship with makeup has not always been smooth but it has become a way of enhancing her beauty while carefully balancing the health of her skin.
“I wear makeup once or twice a week. I used to wear makeup a lot in the past few years, and my skin would always have breakouts and hyperpigmentation. I’ve managed to balance my makeup usage with a consistent skincare routine, a good primer, and SPF,” says Mnyandu.
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The power of makeup
Makeup has long been cherished for its ability to enhance beauty and boost self-confidence.
Dermatologist Dr Matete Mathobela from Cape Town, says makeup can also:
- Act as an additional protective layer against pollutants and dust.
- Camouflage or coverage for patients with skin conditions like melasma and vitiligo.
- Foundations that have sunscreen offer protection against the sun.
- Offer protection against visible light that usually makes pigmentation conditions worse.
While makeup can benefit the skin, she notes it may also lead to certain side effects.
“Makeup can cause irritations that can happen even after using the same products for a long time. Irritant dermatitis, such as rashes or inflammation, usually occurs immediately after applying the products.”
“Oily makeup or makeup that is not washed off properly can lead to acne or enlarged pores. For certain individuals, the contact allergy can present as skin pigmentation (cosmetic pigmented dermatitis).”
Choosing the right makeup for your skin type
To know if you’re allergic to your makeup, Mathobela suggests being mindful of the skin’s reactions.
“To spot if you are allergic, irritation or rashes will be better when not using makeup and get worse when makeup is used.”
“Rashes or irritations will also only appear on the areas that are covered with makeup. Dermatologists can confirm allergic reactions by doing patch tests.”
Dr Matete Mathobela
When choosing makeup, she highlights the importance of selecting products that align with your skin type.
“If you have oily skin or are acne-prone, buy foundations that are water-based or non-oil-based, non-comedogenic, and preferably fragrance-free.”
“People with sensitive skin must use moisturising foundation, fragrance- and alcohol-free, preferably paraben-free, with as few preservatives as possible.”
She also encourages using foundations with an SPF of at least 30 or above, as they can be reapplied during the day because people using make-up find it difficult to reapply sunscreen, which is necessary especially when treating pigmentation.
What is in your makeup?
Speaking about whether cheaper make-up products pose additional risks to the skin, Mathobela clarifies that price isn’t necessarily the issue, but it’s the ingredients and formulation that matter.
“What matters is not the price but the ingredients in the makeup and how well it’s formulated—always buy your makeup from a reputable brand and buy according to your skin type.”
She further advises on ways to maintain and care for the skin when using makeup:
- Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen before applying your makeup.
- Never sleep with your makeup on.
- Double cleanse to ensure proper removal of the makeup.
- Stop using make-up and see a dermatologist if experiencing irritations.
- If your foundation has no SPF, buy a spray of powder sunscreen to reapply over your makeup during the day.
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